Trekking the Larapinta - Day 12: Rocky Bar Gap to Redbank Gorge

Stu Pocknee

23 Oct 2022

Section 11: Finke River to Redbank Gorge

[Hike distance: 14.2km / 8.8mi]

2022-08-04

Despite starting as a cloudless night, by early morning the stars were all hidden. Yet again, I decided to play it safe and gather up clothing and shoes from the trees they were hanging in. Sometime around 5am my preparations paid dividends as rain drops began to pepper my face. Quickly I hauled the tarp over bed and gear. The rain drummed away gently, helping me to drowse off again contentedly. At 6am my wrist watch alarm went off. There didn't seem to be much sense in waking the camp as we had an easy day ahead of us, and there wasn't much point getting up in the rain.

Elise, Phil, and Fraser thought differently. Within 10 minutes they were all stirring. A bit of light rain was not going to hinder progress apparently.

A wet morning at Rock Bar Gap.

Fraser retrieving his boots from under my tarp. I had stashed them there earlier when rain seemed probable.

Rain pooled on my tarp.

Preparing to break camp. Wet.

My gloves. I wore them for sun protection. All but had it after two weeks on the Larapinta.

We sorted breakfast, every now and again ducking under a tree as the rain got heavier, and then returning to the cooking spot as it eased off again. After 30 minutes it had all but disappeared.

We were in no hurry. It was almost 9am before Fraser, fully packed and with nothing else to do, set out alone. I was 10 minutes or so behind him, and Elise and Phil a similar interval behind me.

Elise marching out of Rocky Bar.

Phil not far behind.

Today's 10km hike would take us firstly alongside the long ridge that buttresses out east from Mt Sonder to Rocky Bar Gap. Then along the southern flank of Mt Sonder itself. In absolute terms there would not be more than 25-30m of elevation change.

Easy walking. The easiest of the entire trek really. Cool with largely overcast conditions. After few km I had still not caught Fraser. Knowing I wouldn't unless he stopped I began to wonder if I may not see him until Redbank Gorge. At 10am I turned a corner to find him sitting in a small clearing at the side of the track getting a brew going. Most of his pack contents were strung out over surrounding shrubbery in an attempt to make sure it was all dry. The sun had obligingly appeared about 30 minutes before. I joined him, did the same with my gear, assembled the Helinox and relaxed to wait for Elise and Phil. They weren't long coming. We stayed there resting happily in our chairs a full hour. There was, after all, no rush.

Fraser waiting for us to catch up. Gear spread out to air and dry. Sonder in the background.

High, wide, and handsome.

Reference material always seemed to bag the first section out of Alice as being the easiest of the Larapinta. Maybe it was the conditions, but in my mind the leg from Rocky Bar Gap to Redbank Gorge was the least challenging of the whole trail.

It was bit surreal completing the final 5.5km to Redbank Gorge. Given the brutal nature of the track as a whole this section seemed far too easy. Almost suspiciously so. What final sting in the tail would the Larapinta deliver? Surely it would not be content to just let us waltz into the final trailhead without a last cruel surprise?

Ominous premonitions came to naught, and we reached the Redbank Gorge camp shelter without incident at 12:30pm.

The final sign before the finish.

Fist bumps. Wide grins. Congratulations all round. We'd done it. Well, the length of the trail anyway. Just Mt Sonder to go.

Fraser at the finish line.

A pair of very happy hikers reaching the finish.

Unfortunately the occasion was only partially captured on video as my phone decided half way through to stop filming due to low battery. Oh well.

Heading up to the shelter at Redbank Gorge.

Phil and I sorting gear at the trail head shelter. Frase sacked out on his mattress in the background.

In strict compliance with the trails 'carry out your trash' policy we had taken to tightly stuffing any refuse into empty peanut butter jars. How much fits? Quite a lot, if you work at it a bit.

We spent the afternoon lazily resting, setting up camp in the nearby sandy creek bed, and exploring Redbank Gorge. As per normal the gorge boasted a mix of sand and rock underfoot. Some large boulders to scramble over but nothing too strenuous. A good number of day trippers wandered about happily. When we finally reached the waterhole at the end of the gorge we found it to be full of dead fish (with a matching aroma). Festy. But it was shaded, cool, and comfortable. We lazily sprawled over the flat faced rocks, absorbing the view of the red walls topped by blue sky. White wisps of cloud skating quickly past from west to east.

Festy fish.

Fraser contemplating the waterhole at Redbank Gorge. Given the dead fish he had chosen to rename it 'Festy Gorge'. Was apt.

Elise and Phil exploring Redbank.

Fraser deep in Festy Gorge. The narrows at the far end looked enticing. No way was I going to get into the frigid manky water to discover what lay beyond.

On the way back to camp we scouted a route for the morning and were pleased to find that by bush bashing our way out of the riverbed to our north we could be on the required trail within about 30 meters.

I opted for a more conventional 'tented' tarp layout at Redbank.

Fraser in camp. Some bespoke kitchen furniture had helpfully already been laid out for us.

Camp overview.

The looks say it all. It is nice to be done.

Rocky Bar Gap to Redbank Gorge track.

Dirt - Sparks - Code

Self indulgent rambling. Minimal redeeming attributes.

Trekking the Larapinta - Day 12: Rocky Bar Gap to Redbank Gorge