Trekking the Larapinta - Day 2: Wallaby Gap to Bond Gap

Stu Pocknee

13 Oct 2022

Section 1: Telegraph Station to Simpsons Gap

Section 2: Simpsons Gap to Jay Creek

[Hike distance: 22km / 12.7mi]

2022-07-25

For me it was not a brilliant night of sleep. I made it through to about 1am without waking. From then on it was hard going. In the full camp there seemed to be constant snoring, farting, coughing, crinkling of mattresses, and zipping of sleeping bags and tents.

At about 4am the camp came alive. Later I was told that one of the inhabitants had issued a loud "Cock-a-doodle-doo!". Dunno how I missed that. It seems that this was the pre-arranged alarm clock for one the largest groups of hikers (an older bunch in their 60's heading east with only one day to go). They proceeded to pack up and move out. Except in slow motion, and with maximum disruption to the rest of the camp. Zero hurry. Lots of talking, lights, breakfast preparation, and camp tear-down noise.

One of the other campers tried to get them to shut up a bit "There are others of us in this camp still sleeping you know!". No attention (other than a few under-the-breath "Miserable bitch" type comments) was paid to her.

They didn't actually roll out until about 7am.

We were discussing their behavior later as we hiked in the morning cool. I think it was Fraser who said we probably shouldn't judge, by day 8 or 9 on the trail we might give equally few fucks, and be just as feral. Turned out to be kind of prophetic.

From that point on I set my alarm for 6am and our days would begin with a strangled "buk, buk, buk... bu-gurk!!!". A fitting tribute to our introduction to camp mornings.

Phil carried this tent for he and Elise. I didn't envy him. Too much weight for me.

More my speed. Some left over building wrap as a groundsheet and a $60 tarp.

It was 8:30am before we were finished breakfast and ready to hike. We were the last to leave by a fair margin. In future days we would value the cool mornings more, and be walking well before this.

It took an hour of pleasant hiking to reach our first side track - Scorpion Pool.

Side track to Scorpion Pool

Fraser was always keen to see what was beyond the next impediment. Particularly if it involved a bit of rock climbing. Not me. I was generally too exhausted to venture beyond the beaten path. And someone had to take photos...

Next was Fairy Spring where we arrived at 10:00am, and left by about 10:50am. In this country there is something very appealing about a waterhole, no matter how small.

Group selfie with Hat Hill in the background.

Hat Hill Saddle with Simpsons Gap somewhere back over our left shoulders.

Passing through Hat Hill Saddle at 12pm we arrived at Simpsons Gap at 12:40pm. We'd covered roughly 12km for the morning.

The red rocks of Simpson's Gap

We made use of the excellent public toilet amenities. One of our few interactions with an actual flushing toilet along the trail (Standley Chasm and Ormiston Gorge also boasted such modern facilities). There were also garbage bins for disposing of accumulated waste.

We explored the gorge until 2:10pm. The southern entrance has an impressive wall of boulders inhabited (supposedly) by rock wallabies. We had a few quick sightings of one, and this turned out to be the only wallaby we saw on the trail from that point onwards.

Simpsons Gap

Lunch was at the Simpsons Gap Trail Head from 1:20pm to 2:30pm. We then steeled ourselves for the afternoon's hike. Knowing that there would be no access to water until well into the following morning we loaded up with a few extra liters.

The trail from Wallaby Gap to Simpsons Gap.

Heading for Bond Gap

It turned out to be a long and arduous ~9km afternoon hike. Rolling desert scrub country for the most part. Monotonous and grueling, particularly carrying the extra kilograms of water. It was a relief to finally reach Bond Gap by about 6:00pm. The light was already failing so we quickly found a sandy creek bed and set up camp. Fraser went to check out the waterhole at the Gap. For me it was a bridge too far. It could wait until morning.

Reaching Bond Gap as the sun slipped behind the ridge top.

After lunch. Simpons Gap to Bond Gap

Dirt - Sparks - Code

Self indulgent rambling. Minimal redeeming attributes.

Trekking the Larapinta - Day 2: Wallaby Gap to Bond Gap